A MARTINEZ

A Martinez is very easy to distinguish amongst other fine jewelers. Big clues into what makes an A Martinez piece is its hefty size and weight, the use of Sterling Silver, peculiar abstract design work, and the large turquoise stones. The influence of A Martinez's designs comes from Native American Navajo style jewelry.

The work itself looks very man made, with uneven contours, textured metal, and a hammered style. The design work on the bracelets themselves can vary from something more symmetrical and methodical, to a collection of heavy cuff bracelets that have punched out metal scraps arranged cleverly on their surfaces.

From a scale of 1 to 10 in boldness, where Cathy Waterman is a 1, and David Webb is a 9 or a 10, A Martinez is probably a 13 or 14. Although slightly uncouth, these pieces pair stunningly with cowboy boots or the little black dress.

Fine Estate Jewelry

The subtle hints of sophistication, polish, and status that jewelry gives a woman, and how much a woman is willing to pay to get that, is the essence of the jewelry business. Jewelry, and the reasons to wear or make it is a vast and fascinating annex of the art world. Nowhere do brand names matter as much as in jewelry. It is a fast and easy way for a woman to express exactly what she thinks of the fashion world and how seriously she thinks it matters in her life. From cheap colorful plastic bangles, to expensive 18K gold filigreed earrings studded with precious gems, there is a jewel for every woman, and a woman for ever jewel.

But none is as fascinating as the world of fine estate jewelry. For here is not only the pinnacle of prices and status, but also of history, sentiment, and intrigue. Both Agatha Christie and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle dedicated several stories and novels for their sleuths to track down famous diamonds and strings of pearls.

Estate jewelry simply means pre-owned jewelry. It by no means devalues it. There are plenty of - and please excuse the pun - diamonds in the rough to be found amongst estate jewelry. A beautiful pair of diamond and sapphire Buccellati earrings with intense fire, or an elegant geometric H Stern bracelet lightly dusted with small diamonds. Or perhaps for the bolder, a David Webb cocktail ring made of coral, jade, diamond, and gold, or an elegant Tiffany & Co. brooch. The styles and eras and individual designers all bring their own flare to these little wearable pieces of art. Each ring, bracelet, and pendant, is a compilation of hours of labor, sweat, cutting, polishing, casting, sawing, rasping, collecting, and setting. Each little gem, carefully mined, washed, analyzed, cut, analyzed again, sold, and set, and sold again. Each piece of jewelry has a wake of artists, businessmen, high society, appraisers, and history behind it. It is a true form of art that can be worn, touched, and handled.

So where can the average person get a piece of the action? A general place to find goodies like these, would be at an estate sale. This isn't exactly a yard sale, nor is it a flea market. An estate sale is when someone is trying to sell off their belongings as quickly as possible to get the maximum return profit. They are almost always being conducted by a professional. By the time an average person hears about and gets to one of these sales, most of the good stuff is generally gone. And to the unexperienced eye, figuring out which pieces of jewelry are worth buying and which ones are not, can be very tricky.

For one, coming in armed with knowledge of designers, their hallmarks (the numbers, symbols, and signatures stamped into the inside or underside of jewelry), and a general sense of what is worth how much, when, and why, is a good start. That way you can easily identify what a material is made of, when it was made, and how much it is worth. For instance, 750 usually refers to 18K gold. Sometimes designers will stamp 18K directly into their work, sometimes not. 925 refers to sterling silver. Knowing the general total weight in carats on a piece with diamonds, will also indicate how much the piece is really worth. For more information on hallmarks, and how to stylistically recognize certain designer's work, one can take a gander at this article compilation blog: www.oak-gem.blogspot.com.

To some collectors, half the fun is perusing estate sales, finding pieces, and getting them appraised. For others, they just want to find the jewelry without the hassle and risk of paying too much for a piece better off to be scrapped.

In the latter case, it would just be better to find a professional in the business and purchase your piece of jewelry from them. The person to contact would be an estate jewelry salesman and BUYER. The fact that they buy is key. It means they know how much pieces are worth and can instantly detect quality. Someone who just sells will try to turn a profit on just about anything. But a person who buys, HAS to know their stuff.

A fine example of an organization that buys and sells fine estate jewelry is OakGem. You can visit their website www.oakgem.com to see their wares, or do business with them in person. The three graces is another group that deals with second hand jewelry.

Jewelry is a fascinating part of human life and society. It is one of those things we cannot resist. One can wear it and feel a certain level of completion and pride, or one can collect it and treat it as art. Either way, fine estate jewelry is a fascinating world to enter, and when played right, can reap plenty of rewards.

SLANE AND SLANE

Slane and Slane is a very noble high end sterling jewelry line. Run by bi coastal sisters, Heath and Landon Slane, this studio produces spiritually and architecturally influences pieces that resonate with a higher meaning.

The Slane sisters like to invite other artists and designers to work with them in their studio, and a lot of their pieces are a product of a collaboration between multiple artists. This gives their work the feeling of unity, strength, and camaraderie. They work with 100% recycled silver and 80% recycled gold. They are one of the greenest brands out right now, and 90% of their work is done here in America.

The designs of the jewelry itself are usually very humble, very structural, and based around a single idea or texture. A lot of thought goes behind the meaning of each collection. They take their inspiration from other cultures, animals, and architecture.  Each collection is a solid recognizable unit that can stand on its own quite well. Their work is a unique blend of both figurative and abstract design. One clearly sees the figurative influence or elements, but can still appreciate the elegant geometrical back drop.

They use a very small amount of gems to adorn their work. They are usually used either for color, or to add a small bit of glitter here and there. They do, however, have an exquisite pearl collection. They play with the natural forms of their pearls and enhance it with amazing sterling work.

Slane and Slane is the perfect jewelry brand for environmentalists, intellectuals, spiritualists, and artisans. Their work adds a meaningful and elegant touch to anybody, and is a pleasure to both wear and own.

PENNY PREVILLE

Penny Preville is an award winning contemporary jewelry designer. Her work has paved a comfortable path for itself on the red karate and in blockbuster films.

Her jewelry is lacy, but not too delicate. She has lovely hints of Indian and Middle Eastern influences in her designs, which adds a sort of visual fragrance to her work. Her motifs include chains of shapes studded with diamonds,  engraved platinum and white gold, and geometrical lacework.

She keeps up with today's fashion and makes jewelry with a whole outfit in mind.  She keeps her pieces just basic enough to go with most clothes, but still adds a graceful personal touch to them.

Penny Preville jewelry is a great starting point for anyone keen on collecting jewelry.

LAUREN K

Lauren K takes everything we love as little girls, and makes them elegant and mature. Brilliant color combinations, brightly cut stones, and dainty floral detailing makes all of her collectors giddy with satisfaction.

Design-wise she details bold shapes and colors with delicate feminine vines and flowers. She will dangle precious gems off of complex curved hoop earrings, and pairs diamond studded gold with brightly colored gems. For example, she will make a lovely delicate gold pendant, and use a string of precious gems as the chain. She has a fun collection of candy rings. Lovely cut stones set in diamond studded white gold. Although there is nothing original in her rings, they make exquisite accomplices to her other work. She designs with her entire array of work in mind, not just focusing on individual collections.

She has been featured in publications like Elle, Lucky, Marie Claire, New York Times, and Rapaport (just to name a few).

H STERN

H Stern is the deconstructionist of jewelry. He takes his inspiration from other artists. Architects, Dancers, Celtic Dunes, other designers, and so on. He then breaks down these things into their linear elements. If an artist were to take a brush, and do a contour drawing of anything, it would be a great example of the work h stern produces. He really plays with the basics of design unlike any other jeweler. He uses line and line width, and sees how far he can push the simplest of design elements.

Its fair to say that where other designers fall into extremes, his jewelry is a fine example of something in between. This makes his work compatible with almost anything. It is simple, brilliant, and elegant.

DORIS PANOS

Doris Panos is one of those remarkable young women who took the industry by storm. A true diamond in the rough. It is so rare to find female designers in the industry, and for companies this young to be flourishing, but there you have it. doris Panos has done it all! She spent years learning about the industry: from gold and metal smithing, to gemology, and even business. She was so exceptional in all fields that she was encouraged to go start her own company. And in 1993, she did!

Her work is shockingly beautiful. It is intricate and detailed. She features lovely stackable bangles that can be worn individually, or together as a stack. Her treatment of gems is a whole thing in of its own. She sets them in fine glittering rings with lacy metalwork.Her instinct for design creates this wonderful symbiotic relationship between curves and straight lines. Simply masterful!

 

All statements aside, her jewelry is stunning to wear. Period. End of story. However,  every woman who wears her make, and  every man who buys her work to collect, should understand that her jewelry isn't just stunning, it is also a sign letting everyone know that even a 150 year old male establishment cannot accomplish what this 20 year old company owned by a single strong woman just did.

CATHY WATERMAN

Cathy Waterman's jewelry is dripping with femininity and delicacy. Floral and vine motifs along with ethereal handiwork sets her apart from the rest. Her jewelry is very precious and gentle.

However, the woman behind them is very strong. Keeping up a strong designer
jewelry career and raising a family at the same time is an astounding accomplishment. Her work is so personal.  Each ring, each necklace, each bracelet holds a small sliver of her soul. When you wear her jewelry, you aren't wearing someone's big luxury name. Instead, you are wearing someone's fluttering heart and their undying love to create.

RITANI

Ritani creates unique and mysterious wedding and engagement rings.

Their work is layered. At first glance its hard to distinguish them from many of the other wedding and engagement ring companies, but upon closer observation, each ring reveals secrets and invites you to sit and stare at them for an hour or three.

They are one of the youngest companies sold by OakGem, but they have skyrocketed their recognition since opening in 1999. Their attention to detail and polish leaves a strong wake behind them as they surge forward in the seas of wedding and engagement rings. They also create beautiful custom order products. On top of their 11 separate lines of wedding rings. 

Their collections are highly detailed, and make use of not just the top of the ring, but the sides and underside of the rings as well. They take into account the cut of the diamond and incorporate that into the design of the ring itself. They push the boundaries of setting design and are always creating new, playful, and romantic pieces. Examples of this include putting eddies and spirals into the body of the ring, putting smaller diamonds on the sides of the setting instead of on top, and creating unique contours for the rings themselves.

Even if you're not in the market for a wedding or engagement ring, its definitely worth to have a look at their work, just for the aesthetic pleasure of their designs.

CHOPARD

Respect, audacity, independence, and precision. Besides being the company values of Swiss Luxury Watch Company, Chopard, it is also the best way to describe their products.

at first glance their watches are very classic and strict, but upon further observation one notices gems, colors, interesting shapes and patterns hidden within their faces. For a time piece to surprise you again and again like that is quite an accomplishment for a century and a half old swiss company.

Their jewelry line is also very classical and strict. They follow the rules of geometric aesthetics to a tee, and employ very minimalistic foundations in their designs. They do a lot of work with chains as well.

If Chopard's values are also important to you, then a Chopard piece is the perfect choice. Simple, timeless, and dependable.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

 Van Cleef and Arpels is a highly feminine art deco and art nouveau inspired jewely brand.

Their pieces both cater to our inner girl, and to our femininity. They use very figurative designs and have a vast arsenal of gems at their disposal. Interlocking spirals, birds, dangling diamonds, fairies, butterflies and flowers are common elements in their collections.

Their designs are dynamic ad use bold curves as the spine for their work. Mosaics os square cut gems will sometimes adorn the surfaces of their pieces. They create lustrous petals from precious gems found across the world, placed around a beautiful arrangement of centerpiece jewels. They use time pieces as a jewel that they place in the center of a floral arrangement of jewels and 18K gold.

Their gems are beautiful to behold, and their designs are daring. As youthful as their work is, their manner of execution makes these pieces wearable by a woman or girl of any age.

STEPHEN DWECK

Stephen Dweck is obsessed with nature. Yet his work is oxymoronic. On the one hand he depicts things like flowers, and leaves, and fairy like motifs. He uses stones with a gentle pallor and cut. On the other hand, his work is bold. His stones are huge, and aside from being polished are generally left in their original rough shapes. His metal smithing is bold and hefty. In this manner, Dweck makes a very original statement. He really shows off the "rock" element of his gems. Definitely jewelry for a woman who knows how to make a statement.





 This designer doesn't stay in the shadows of his luxury brand studio either. Like his work, he takes society by storm. His jewelry is shown in numerous TV shows and movies including gossip girl and sex in the city 2. He is truly a jeweler for the stars. He has also designed for famous ads, including a beautiful martini glass for a Bacardi ad. He has been featured in many runway fashion collections as well, including Oscar de la Renta, Donna Karan, and Escada.

His passion for all things natural leads him around the world to collect beautiful and exotic semiprecious gems, which he turns into his stunning One Of A Kind pieces. Each one is adorned with Adam, a japanese beetle, usually cast in any kind of metal Stephen can get his hands on.

His pieces are designed as an homage to the beautiful world around him. He doesn't impose his cut onto nature's precious gems and squash them into forms familiar to everyone. He leaves their natural beauty alone, and only helps it along by polishing it up. A true lover of stones should really consider supporting his work.

TIFFANY & CO.

Tiffany and Company is perhaps the most well known designer jewelry firm here in America. One could even go as far as to call it a household name. The company was started by Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1837 in New York City. He opened a fancy items shop and very quickly gained renown. His clientele grew and soon he became the go to shop for heads of state and the creme de la creme of east coast society.

C.L. Tiffany bought the biggest fancy yellow diamond (Tiffany Diamond), and also bought the French royal jewels. He was then crowned the King of Diamonds. Aside from housing some of the biggest and most exquisite gems in the world, the company has also allegedly discovered new gems such as Tanzanite, Morganite, and Tsavorite by launching expeditions to remote parts of the world in search for new materials.

Years of pioneering designs, creating names, and developing newer methods has not only put, but kept Tiffany on the map for a century and a half. The company now includes scores of designers, including Elsa Peretti, Frank Ghery, Paloma Picasso, and Jean Schlumberger. They make jewelry for all classes and occasions. They have even been known to create parasol handles, spurs, halter tops, and bicycles in its colorful history. And like when it opened, it continues to attract heads of state and the creme de la creme of society.

MIKIMOTO

If you were thinking about buying pearls anywhere else, STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING. Mikimoto is the place to go for pearls. Not only are they the absolute best pearls, but buying cultured pearls is the most environmentally safe way to go about these precious gems of the ocean!

They are one of the only luxury brands (if not THE only) to work exclusively with pearls. Their work is stunning! Each pearl a perfect little orb, tenderly cultivated and polished to perfection.

It all started with Kokichi Mikimoto - the pearl king. He is thought to be the inventor of cultured pearls. He was disturbed by the corruption, irregularity, and dangers of collecting natural pearls, and started creating his own in the early 19th century. Both artist and scientist, he was able to create pearls that rivaled those naturally found in the sea.

Mikimoto is the world leader in cultured pearls, and surpasses all competitors by far. They set the world standards in cultured pearls, and have a wide collection of stunning pearl jewelry.

To get pearl jewelry from anywhere else is absolute madness. Mikimoto is time tested, environmentally friendly, and treats its workers well.

FABERGE

Everyone knows the famous Faberge Eggs. They were created by Gustav Faberge in the late 19th century for the Tzar. The Faberge history is full of travel and intrigue, and almost two centuries of creating beautiful gold objects. Faberge spent most of his life in Russia, where the Faberge company originated. Branches were open in London, Kiev, and followed by a few others.

With such a historical momentum building up for 100 years, the Faberge company was able to make a come back after the USSR confiscated and nationalized all of its goods.

Faberge recently relaunched in 2007 with a vast collection of glimmering pieces.
Each piece of gold is slathered with hundreds of beautiful gems. They have it all. Diamonds, rubies, emeralds, pearls. They even give you the option of choosing pieces based entirely on color. Gray, white, yellow, green, blue, red, orange, and so on.

Faberge is one of the oldest designer brands, and one of the most luxurious. Truly, the name itself is all you need. Strong, historic, bold, and beautiful, any piece would be a crown jewel to your collection.

MARTIN FLYER

One can say that Martin Flyer is one of the poster brands for engagement and marriage rings. Flyer features very classic, diamond rings. They offer platinum, 18K yellow and white gold, and Palladium.  They have a new FlyerFit brand where their engagement and wedding bands are designed to sit together as a set. They market the 5 basic engagement ring types: Solitaire, Three Stone, Channel, Shared Prong, and Micro Pave. They are a very informative and social brand, helping you purchase and care for your rings every step of the way.

SEAMAN SCHEPPS

Jewelry as a whole is considered to be serious business. Expensive, labor intensive, and a luxury only the richest could afford. Born out of the ashes of the depression, Seaman Schepps did to jewelry what nobody else could do. Without losing any of its prestige, he injected magic and fun into his work. Eclectic color palettes, unusual treatment of gemstones, and an almost sculpture like attitude to his work creates a collection of work that is sheer joy to behold.

His jewelry is instantly recognizable by clusters of precious and semi precious stones. He let the earthiness and natural beauty of candy looking gem stones take the stage, while small tendrils of gold or platinum would daintily hold the clusters together. He plays on our love of bright colors and round bubbly designs. He lets his stones retain their natural asymmetrical shape, polishing them just enough to let them glow. The juxtapositions of cut and cabochon stones set in gold creates a dynamic design.

His innovative nature didn't stop at the unorthodox way he treated gemstones. He included more base rocks like rock crystals, and treated them as such to bring them up to the same level as precious stones. He incorporated ebony, wood, and coral; making them just as beautiful as his sapphires and emeralds. He took shells from the sea, cleaned them, and studded them with gorgeous gems.

 His playful nature had no end He created plenty of charming animals encrusted in precious gems. Coy turtles, crying fish, and cocky roosters were a small part of his repertoire.

Few other designers were able to do with gems what he did. He injected purity of heart, his playfulness, and his joy into what was normally considered a serious and prestigious art form.

BUCCELLATI

A century old Italian jewelry firm, Buccellati probably sits closest to the top in the world of fine jewelry. Each piece is made of exquisitely ornate gold drizzled with hundreds of diamonds. 

 Their design motifs consist of very delicate stars, snowflakes, flowers, and honeycomb patterns. These perfectly balanced and symmetrical themes give their work a glitter and luster unmatched by any other jeweler.

 The pieces themselves are detailed with the finest of strokes in Milan. Super refined honeycombs of 18K gold and platinum tendrils are studded with vivacious diamonds. Contemporary gold cuff bracelets are bejeweled with small star shaped diamond clusters.


Rings are encrusted with rubies and showered with  diamonds, perfectly aligned within their lacy designs.

Each hand crafted piece can take from several months to several years to create.

Owning a Buccellati isn't merely a status symbol, or a collector's item. it is owning a pure work of art. It is owning months or even years of an artist's life, their passions, and an awe inspiring piece of Italian workmanship.